Togo Travel Diary - July 2024

Tuesday, July 22nd - Day 14:

A Rejuvenating Return to Oasis:

After an extended stint in Lome, waking up at the Oasis was a refreshing return to normalcy, greeted by the comforting ritual of omelet and coffee in the morning breeze.

Yesterday, I lent Anani some funds to fix his car for the upcoming burial marathon on Saturday—tending to the final rites for a grand-uncle, Sophie's mother, and a judge's father. Thus, it felt like a splash of luxury when he swung by to scoop me up for our ride to Vogan. We named the car Emil and set off with high spirits, though it wasn’t long before Emil began to cough and sputter, halting us midway. A friendly mechanic paused his day to diagnose our ailing companion—turns out, Emil was parched, completely drained of oil and coolant! After more than an hour aided by kind souls who rallied to our rescue, I opted for a moto ride to Vogan, donning Fulli's helmet amidst my embarrassment at yet another tardy arrival.

A Warm Yet Witty Welcome at Vogan:

Upon reaching, Elias and his trio of assistants were already there, waiting. Our reception by the mes High chief was cordial—he welcomed Elias warmly but insisted his crew don vivid yellow vests so they wouldn't be mistaken for inmates. What a sight that would be! We agreed to venture into the prison shortly, keen to meet Dodzi and check on the roofing progress.

Inside, the crew had crafted an impromptu scaffold from old sticks and planks—a sight of ingenuity in action. Anani disappeared for a bite, leaving me to my own devices, so I ventured in alone. The sight that greeted me was nothing short of inspiring—the progress made, the seamless teamwork within the prison walls. Dodzi proved an exceptional ally, his professionalism suggesting we should consider him for future projects.

Creative Challenges and Cement Runs:

Post-check, Elias and I scooped up supplies for cement, preparing for the day's creative session—sketching our design directly on the wall, a task easier envisioned than executed. Mid-draft, Anani appeared, requesting a last-minute change in the wall's text from 'education center' to 'rehabilitation center'—a detail he'd only just recalled.

Earlier, Gilles' brother had joined us for a trip to the carpenter, where we approved the new looms. I settled the bill and arranged for their delivery to the prison by Friday. Our day concluded with a wind-down at a local bar since the prison’s was closed, turning our project day into a lively social gathering. Even Gilles' uncle and John dropped by, stirring curiosity and camaraderie among everyone, including the guards.

Long Day’s Journey into Night:

With Elias and his team, we pushed on till dusk, finally hitching a moto ride back to Oasis. A pit stop at the mechanic’s revealed a disassembled engine, prolonging our day into the night. I dropped Anani at his place—surprisingly, he still had it—and then navigated back to Oasis solo. A power outage meant a room switch in near darkness. Exhausted, I declined Anani's invitation to meet his family; after 14 relentless hours, all I yearned for was the embrace of my bed. Goodnight from a worn yet fulfilled wanderer, dreaming of tomorrow’s adventures.