Togo Travel Diary - July 2024

Friday, July 26th - Day 17:

A Morning of Quiet Beginnings and Unexpected Guests:

The day unwrapped gently at Oasis, with the comforting ritual of omelet and coffee shared with Nick. The calm of the morning was briefly interrupted by the lively chatter of the eccentric American lady who stumbled into our breakfast. Intrigued by her tales of wandering lost through Togo and Benin, I invited her to visit the prison later—a decision that would add a unique twist to our day.

A quick call with Britt provided a needed update on the financial agreements between Camilla and me, smoothing out any wrinkles before the day truly began.

A Whirlwind of Tasks and Tinkering:

At the workshop, I was greeted by the ever-smiling faces of Amaurin, Marine, and Esse. The others were yet to arrive, so I seized the moment to dash to the bank and pharmacy, picking up crutches for Gilles’ mother—a task commissioned by Camilla.

Arriving at the prison with Anani and Jayjay, we found Dodzi and his crew stalled at the gates since 9:30 AM. Frustrated but determined, I negotiated with the high soldier for immediate access for our team under pre-agreed terms. My resolve was clear: if this access issue persisted, higher authorities would hear of it.

Inside, I cornered Dodzi about a misalignment with the posts he was installing. He acknowledged the oversight with a promise to remedy it swiftly. We agreed that the final payment would rest securely with Nick at Oasis, a plan Dodzi accepted with a professional nod.

The mosaic artisans were crafting beauty from chaos, their skilled hands bringing our vision to life with each tile placed. As we inspected their progress, new structural concerns arose. The positioning of the posts needed a dramatic rethink for safety reasons, shifting from the planned distances to a new specification. Dodzi rallied a team of robust inmates, orchestrating a ballet of hammers and chisels that reshaped the foundation in real-time.

Afternoon Delights and Cultural Exchanges:

Post-adjustments, the American whirlwind arrived, wide-eyed and utterly fascinated by the depth and impact of Togo Esome's efforts. We shared a round of beers with the prison officials, and Jayjay shared his life story—an intimate narrative session that turned into an impromptu celebration of resilience and community.

Our afternoon spiraled into a vibrant discussion of colors for the mosaic. With no phones or pictures to guide us, I led a hands-on demonstration, laying tile fragments into the wall’s crevices to map out our palette visually—a method as ancient as the art form itself.

The contract with the soldier lady was sealed with handshakes and signatures, securing her six months' salary upfront, inclusive of an earlier payment made by Camilla.

Evening Reflections and Village Ventures:

The day closed with a journey to Vogan market with Jayjay and Anani, where the vibrant stalls offered a feast for the senses. We then ventured to Anani's village—an enchanting tapestry of mud huts and meandering goats, where I met his father, a craftsman of the finest straw sieves.

Our day wrapped under the soft glow of street lamps at the Spaghetti Bar, where laughter and stories poured as freely as the drinks. From the morning’s serene start to the evening’s joyful communion, it was a day rich in progress and punctuated by the deep satisfaction of tasks accomplished and friendships deepened. A perfect encapsulation of life’s unexpected beauties and the enduring spirit of our mission in Togo.